Pictures
of the inside of the hull after the "bottom" and the
strengthening cross members had been "waxoyled" prior to
placing the "ballast".
Note: If you are thinking of ballasting a boat with bricks in a
similar manner they MUST be engineering quality bricks.
Often referred to as "blues", but you will see that they
can be red(ish).
Engineering bricks will not absorb water should any water get into
the bottom of the boat at any time.
"Common" or facing bricks are very porous and should you use that type of
brick if they did get wet it would be a long time before they dried
out, in the situation that you are putting them.
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Facing
bricks or "commons" are a lot less strong than engineering
bricks and may possibly "break down" over time.
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If
you are interested, information on the fabrication of a steel
narrowboat shell can be found on the website of,
Reeves
Boatbuilders of Napton,
the company that provided the "bare" hull of Measham. |
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Lining
the bottom of the boat with fairly substantial bituminous roofing
felt before placing the bricks. |
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Cutting
the felt to fit each individual section. |
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The
felt now cut and in place. |
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A
slight overlap in the centre. |
| Bricks
being handed to inside the boat for placing. |
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| Bricks
being received inside the boat. |
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| Bricks
being placed, tightly, so that they will not move about. |
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The
job completed.
Although the bricks are higher than the steel cross members, at this
time, you have to be aware that a wooden batten will be fixed to the
steel to above the height of the bricks.
The wooden floor sections will be fixed to the wooden battens.
It is likely that some bricks may be removed towards the end of the
fitting out to "trim" the boat to allow for the weight
added as fixtures and fittings. Inspection hatches installed as the
floor is laid will allow for this to happen. |
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Close
up showing brick placement.
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